Not your typical breakfast restaurant
“Perceptions” by Gerry Warner
It was with some
trepidation that the good wife and I headed to Oregon for a vacation two weeks
ago.
We
couldn’t help thinking to ourselves that with all the craziness happening in
the Excited States of America, a vulgar lout nominated for president and police
killing and being killed in the streets, was this a good idea?
But
we decided to take the plunge in our recently purchased Volkswagen camper van
and bravely (foolishly?) headed out. A day later in Goldendale, Washington we
had our perceptions disabused.
Goldendale,
a small town on the Columbia Plateau close to the Oregon border, has clearly
seen better days. But after a late start we decided to have breakfast there. Oddly
enough, we had difficulty finding a restaurant open for breakfast in a country
that usually serves the best breakfasts in the world and then we noticed there
were several closed storefronts in the dusty town.
But
we persevered and were finally directed to the “Coyote Café,” which we had
difficulty finding because the sign over the door said the “Golden Chinook
Café” that proudly served breakfast “all day, every day,” and in a previous
incarnation, was known as the “Top Hat Tavern.” As we settled into our chairs
and looked around, it certainly had the atmosphere of a tavern with dim
lighting and a cast of characters that looked like they wanted to be in a
tavern.
But
then I looked closer and there was grandma knitting and watching her
grandchildren in the corner as they played with toys thoughtfully provided by the
restaurant. In another corner there was an old gentleman dozing in a deep,
leather sofa that had probably been left over from the tavern days as well as a
huge stack of old newspapers and magazines on the end of the counter including
the Goldendale Sentinel.
It
wasn’t fancy and certainly wasn’t bright and antiseptic like your typical
fast-food restaurant. But I couldn’t help thinking “I could get to like this
place.” It wasn’t just a restaurant. It was a warm and cheery community meeting
place.
Then
I saw the folded, one-page, paper menu that had a distinct military vibe to it.
There was a “Basic Training” breakfast (bacon or Polish sausage patty with two
eggs, hash browns and sausage gravy), “French Foreign Legion Toast” and a
“Heavy Lift” (three-egg omelet, cheese, sautéed vegetables, hash browns and
toast). And the restaurant also offered a salad with a “free cookie” and its
own special blend of Goldendale Chinook Coffee. Not exactly your typical fast
food joint for sure, but what a refreshing change!
When
the “special blend” coffee arrived, it was served by a tall waiter with a
goatee and macramé dreadlocks, who was the part owner with his father and a
retired army vet. The coffee was great, I told him. “I spent 14 years in the
army and I swore when I got out that I’d never drink a bad cup of coffee
again,” he quickly replied.
As
it turned out, it was a typically great American breakfast that took a while to
arrive but was worth the wait. As we waited, I read in the Goldendale Sentinel
about the shocking resignation of the Klickitat County Fair Queen. She wasn’t
talking to the press, but the board president was and he said the board was
seeking legal advice. And I watched as restaurant patrons leafed through a
stack of paperbacks in the restaurant book exchange and I watched the kids play
and do puzzles and I wondered if those millennial kids of mine would ever
provide the good wife and I with grandchildren of our own?
But
most of all, I wondered about the ambiguous country I was visiting, which on
the one-hand seemed to be sinking into anarchy and despair and the other could
provide a “clean, well-lighted place” that would make Hemingway proud.
Strange
people, Americans, but I wouldn’t count the country out yet.
Gerry Warner is a
retired journalist, who loves to travel and go out for breakfast with his wife
Sandra.